Medieval Kotor on Easter Sunday, 2006 |






Imagine the azure-blue Adriatic trapped inside a mountain range. That is the
Bay of Kotor, a huge fjord off the Adriatic in the northwesternmost tip of Montenegro
(Black Mountain). The drive south from Dubrovnik to the mouth of
the bay is about 1/2 hour. The bay, being a fjord, is very deep and quite
still and there is precious little land along the water's edge before butting
against the rocky cliffs. Fjords are estuaries left behind by growing glaciers
of the distant past that plowed gorges into the seabed, then melted and
retreated, leaving deep cuts in the coastline. One first encounters the city
of Hercig Novi, newly emerged from the Soviet bloc,with its concrete landscape
and brittle service. A stay there is pleasant enough but somewhat pedestrian
compared to what awaits. Aah, drive east along the perimeter of the
bay, all up and down and around, and after an hour of mountain-meets-sea comes
the medieval village of Kotor. This very charming and very Christian
village behind walls numbers maybe only small 10 city blocks, with equal numbers
of churches and cafes at every corner. Kotor's history goes back 20 centuries
and it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tourists have found Kotor, but have
not taken it from its local citizens who strolled in their Easter finery, chatting
and sipping muddy cups of coffee at the many outdoor cafes. Most stunning
of all moments there was our encounter with the bells of the Cathedral
in the main square. First one bell chimed, the sound ricocheting off the stone
buildings and plaza. Then a second, and a third, and soon SIX bells were
crashing and clanging in a glorious noise that left us mute. This happened
for three 15-minute sessions in our 3 hour visit. Probably because it was
Easter. This place is hard to get to, but singular in its impact & riches.
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The tenth-century cathedral overflowed with Easter Sunday worshippers and re-sounded
with bells after the ceremony. |