Bosnia's highways north from Sarajevo follow deep green rivers winding thru small towns and rural farmscapes. Once in Croatia, the welcome E70 autobahn awaits and speeds ratchet up to 100mph or more. Zagreb comes and goes in a flurry of signs and intersections. Thirty minutes later, the Slovenia border arrives as a canopy ablaze in floodlights, and the road shrinks again to two lanes heading north and west into the rolling mountains lining the Krka River valley, our destination.

In less than half and hour, a sign marked "Otocec" prompts a panicky exit onto a country road. Left and down is the Otocec Grad ("Castle") Hotel, a delightful 18th century palace on a grassy island splitting the River Krka. The Otocec Grad is a visit to Medieval East Europe, from the wooden bridge entrance to its pebbled courtyard flanked by flaming torches framing an arched doorway in the thick castle walls. Inside is a comfortable vine-clad stone residence with 16 double rooms for guests and a period dining room of dark wood and white walls, lined with tall windows. Dinner is, while not haute cuisine, quite enjoyable indeed, with menu selections gathered from the local markets. The staff is extremely warm and attentive, Sleep came quickly.

Saturday dawned warm but misty, prompting a short morning drive to Novo Mesto, a hill-town down river, set into a bend of the Krka with pleasant cobblestone streets, tall churches, and a lively Saturday morning market. Flower vendors dominated the vendor stands, but fall vegetables abounded, and store windows were stocked with smart fashions and goods. The white church of Sv. Marija occupies the highest point in town, its sacristy featuring elaborate religious art, much gold leaf, and a prominent black-marble alter flanked by statues & icons. The view down over the red-roofed village shows off the deep Krka river gorge and the hills beyond. Looking north one spots a distant white church on an impossibly steep mount
ringed with vineyards. Where's the car--we had to see more.

Right before entering the E70 interchange, a narrow road
marked with a brown wine cask sign veers right. Almost immediately we're in among the grapes, twisting and turning uphill between barns, thatch-roof houses, shirt-sleeved arbor-meisters, and the golds and reds of the dying foliage. Every turn prompts another photo-op. Near the top is the Vinotoc of Milos Munih, (Trska Gora 262) its basement stocked with pungent vats of fermenting grapes, its upstairs furnished with indoor and outdoor benches to sit & sample the wines and the vintner's own sausage. Milos was fun, wearing a grape-stained full-length bib, and chatting about his award-winning 2000 Pinot. A dalliance was in order - sipping the light & fruity red in the dappled sun while looking out over the green Krka valley to the far hills some 20 miles off.

When you go, take swimwear, tennis gear, walking shoes and some warm sweaters. Go for the swift flowing Krka, its deep wooded river valley and hiking trails, the green valley vistas broken by small red-roof villages, the neat and tidy villages, and the quiet of it all. Seek out the local restaurants for their surprising variety of game, goulashes and beers.